Sorted by technique, not by province

Sorting noodles by region tells you where a bowl comes from, not why it feels the way it does. This atlas groups forty-two noodles by how the dough is formed — pulled, shaved, alkaline, hand-rolled, rice, coarse grain, pinched or machine-cut — and gives the topping, the region and the intended bite for each. Two provinces apart often land in the same group, because the same technique produces the same texture.

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